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You can always count on the designers at London Fashion Week to deliver some of the most interesting, avant garde, referential, and character-driven collections of the season. There must be something in the water over there in merry old England, because these designers certainly march to the beat of their own drummers. And yet, even amongst all the distinctly individualistic and, at times, utterly unwearable (if gorgeous) feats of creative expression, trends cannot help but coalesce. This season, London’s designers seemed to be in a particularly romantic mood, leaning hard on sheer fabrics, lingerie-inspired details, and voluminous silhouettes to create some of the most beautiful clothes of the season thus far.
1. She’s Come Undone
“Dégrader” was the word of the week in London, with designers from Erdem to Yuan Ao to Toga to Masha Popova showing looks that appeared to be pieced together, unfinished, or falling apart. It was romantic and, at times, seemingly haphazzard. A beautiful mess for a modern Miss. Havisham.
2. Da Bomb Dot Com
Bombers in leather, satin, and denim were exploded to near cartoonish proportions, with sleeves so full and voluminous they would put even the Victorians to shame.
3. Rough Puff
Speaking of full sleeves, bombers weren’t the only pieces of clothing getting the full-figure treatment. Puffy shoulders and leg-of mutton sleeves were everywhere this season, adding to the prevailing sense of romance and lost grandeur that permeated the London shows.
4. Sheer to Be Seen
See-through fabrics appeared throughout the week, whether hyper-sexualized with little underneath and leaving absolutely nothing to the imagination, or draped over dresses and coats to add further visual interest to the season’s most romantic looks.
5. In Full Bloom
Three dimensional florals — especially ones executed in black and white — were a big trend at New York Fashion Week and they appear to have made their way across the pond as well, with designers from Bora Aksu to Erdem embracing the the sculptural possibilities of this most feminine of motifs — buds, leaves, stems, and all.
6. Go Flock Yourself
Feathers feathers everywhere, even on the shoes at Erdem where feathers exploded out onto the ground like the foot plumage of prized show hens.
7. Black Tie Exceptional
Tuxedo abstractions were all over the New York runways this season and continued to pop up through the London shows — from tonal metallic embellishments up the sides of a pair of trousers at Burberry, to a double-breasted tuxedo dress with full padded hips at Mithridate.
8. Keep Your Pants to Yourself
Underwear-in-lieu-of-pants is hardly a recent runway phenomenon, but the sheer volume of designers indulging in this most daring of styling trends in London — especially for Fall — was a bit of a surprise. Still, if you’ve got the legs for it…
9. Hey There, Big Boy
In a season full of outsized silhouettes, the extreme proportions of some of the menswear-inspired pieces from designers like Yuhan Ao and Natasha Zinko felt almost comically large, like a child sneaking into her parents’ room to try on her father’s suits. Very Vicent Adultman from Bojack Horseman.
10. All Laced Up
From traditional corsetry at Agro Studio and Dreaming Eli to lace-up pants, skirts, and gowns at Sinead Gorel, Di Petsa and Simon Rocha there were more crisscrossing ribbons in London this season than the gift wrapping station at Harrods on Christmas Eve.
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