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When Prada Group fired designer Dario Vitale after just one collection, the fashion world knew that it was being denied something truly special. Vitale’s vision for Versace was one deeply rooted in the house’s history and codes, but with an eye to daywear and drawing primary inspiration from the long defunct Versace Jeans sub-lable that was oh-so-relevant in the 1990s.
It was a shocking place for the designer to start from — considering Donatella Versace’s emphasis on fancy dresses and slick suiting during her run as creative director — and not everyone liked it. But it was exciting, at least! Unexpected and fresh. And it was the kind of collection that got better the longer you looked at it.
How Vitale’s Versace would have evolved from there, we will never know, but if these campaign images are any indication, it could have grown into something very cool indeed.
The campaign was photographed by three very different artist: Steven Meisel — who shot the original and iconic Vesace Jeans campaigns — Tania Franco Klein, and Frank Lebon.
Lebon’s images are raw and emphasize the wearability of Vitale’s clothes in the real world. Even the image of the model sitting against the mirror with her green underwear showing feels real and grounded, like a snapshot taken by a friend after a long and fabulous night out, when things are finally winding down.
Klein’s images are more cinematic and present a version of Versace that doesn’t rely on big logos or a preponderance of chiffon and crystal beading.
And then there are Meisel’s photos, which feel like a throwback to the Versace Jeans campaigns of old without being a straight rehash. They are sexy and colorful and full of charming styling details so your eye can’t help but dance around.
Of course, Peter Mulier is rumored to take the reins at Versace next, and if his work at Alaïa is any indication, his tenure at the brand should be nothing short of stellar. Still, looking at these images of Vitale’s one and only Versace campaign, we can’t help but mourn the cool that could have been.
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